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the other day when i was working on my boiler system at my house, i noticed that my hands seemed really oily from the glycol solution that i am using on my system. My question is, have any of you ever used this as a lubricant for your bi pod or gun parts in the winter time? I know pure glycol will not freeze and there are several different kinds, however this does more than just keep the water from freezing, it also helps keep the impeller on the pumps lubricated. I have been thinking about putting this on my bolt and firing pin and maybe bi-pod since this stuff dont freeze. I am going to dig farther into the different kinds of glycol and check there evaporation rate to see if they might dry up or evaporate to fast for it to be plausable. Let me know what you think

Never tried glycol on my gun, but I use a product called Break Free CLP. It's a lubricant in an aerosol form that has an effective temperature range of -65 degrees to 475 degrees. It's the only lubricant I've found that will keep my autoloading shotgun funtioning during those frigid late-season goose hunts.

I leave my fireing pin clean and dry dureing the winter months and i also apply a little sub-zero grease to the back of the bolt luggs..

lyonch wrote:the other day when i was working on my boiler system at my house, i noticed that my hands seemed really oily from the glycol solution that i am using on my system. My question is, have any of you ever used this as a lubricant for your bi pod or gun parts in the winter time? I know pure glycol will not freeze and there are several different kinds, however this does more than just keep the water from freezing, it also helps keep the impeller on the pumps lubricated. I have been thinking about putting this on my bolt and firing pin and maybe bi-pod since this stuff dont freeze. I am going to dig farther into the different kinds of glycol and check there evaporation rate to see if they might dry up or evaporate to fast for it to be plausable. Let me know what you think

I think full strength Glycol is corrosive.

There are some great "moly" lubes out there. Moly gives about a 300% mechicanical advantage of steel on steel. The dry ones are great for the cold.

Just as Tim, I grease the back of the bolt lugs and no lubricant whatsoever on my firing pin/ spring (Tubb type- aluminum). I also Q-tip on a little FP10 (prefer) or Remington Teflon into corners of the lug rails and along the length of the underside of the bolt.

FP10 (Shooters Choice) and Rem Teflon are very fine and won't gum (if they gum it's too cold to be outside).

Greasing the backs of your bolt lugs is a must do! (or don't- It's your rifle)

204sniper wrote:Never tried glycol on my gun, but I use a product called Break Free CLP. It's a lubricant in an aerosol form that has an effective temperature range of -65 degrees to 475 degrees. It's the only lubricant I've found that will keep my autoloading shotgun funtioning during those frigid late-season goose hunts.

2x on the Break Free, it works well for me.

Mollys rated from -200 to 650 degrees!!!

204sniper,
an autoloader should be ran with no oil, try it, it works a lot better, the shell chafe doesn't stick to the oil residue back inside to cause the problems. What I typically do is spray it down with lube then take a paper towel and wipe it all off as well as i can then assemble it.

I use Ballistol on all of my guns as a lube/protectant. It's great stuff and it doesn't get sticky. I've tried a lot of oils that are out on the market, breakfree clp gets gummy when it's cold out. Rem oul w/ teflon is decent but you can tell that it gets a bit sticky also. FP10 is what I use to use before I picked up the Ballistol, Ballistol is 100x better. Trust me, give it a try and you'll never look back.
http://www.ballistol.com/

The moly on the bolt ramps and lugs is good thing though.

I use glycol on my field equipment, it keeps them working all winter. good stuff. they're made of potmetal and stainless i believe.

xdeano

thanks for the info Dean

Dean, I've tried just about anything I could think of with my autoloader, which includes running it dry, and what works best for me is a little Break Free on the bolt rails to keepm it running in cold weather. I don't run it "wet", but instead rub on a very light film of lubricant. The problem I've had is the fine dust from corn stalks entering the action and causing enough friction to slow everything down and prevent proper cycling, especially in very cold weather.

Another cold weather lubricant that works quite well is graphite. The downside is that it is messy to apply, and when applied through an aerosol can once it's on it doesn't come off. That is why I only use it on the joints of my portable treestands.

I can attest to dean doing his research and putting a autoloader to the test in really cold weather and cycling a LOT of shells. I've always been a believer in having "clean" equipment and running it dry.

A LOT of rounds!
Clean is they only way to role.

xdeano

xdeano wrote:A LOT of rounds!
Clean is they only way to role.

xdeano

I could agree more! This past weekend was brutal cold, and the first stand of the weekend I ended up staying over an hour. never once had a problem with bolt or firing pin, it actually never entered my mind. I will post more about this stand once the results are posted for the classic. It was my most intresting stand to date!!!!